Wednesday 6 October 2010
Tuesday 5 October 2010
Photography
There are many different genres in photography. These are: Aerial (from above), Black and White, commercial, documentary, fashion, fine art, forensic, glamour, high speed, illustration, landscape, nature, paparazzi, photojournalism, portrait, still life, stock, underwater and wedding.
- I learnt that light always travels in a straight line. When the image is unable to bend, the image is turned upside down.
- In photography, a shutter allows light to pass for a determined period of time.
- When it comes to shutter speed, the higher the number, the more focus the object is in. As the shutter speed decreases the image blurs.
- The aperture is the actual hole in the camera. It can be made bigger or smaller.
- Aperture has f-stops that can allow you to change the size of the photo.
- If you use a small hole you can’t take in as much as would in a bigger hole.
- The lens of the camera captures the light from the subject and brings it to focus on the film.
- The size of the aperture and the brightness of the scene controls the amount of light that enters the camera during the period of time. The shutter controls the length of time that the light hits the surface.
- Depth of field scale is about the foreground, middleground and background. It can change what is focused on.
Monday 27 September 2010
Friday 24 September 2010
Evaluation
I liked how we made our own cameras because we were able to learn more about the process of making Pinhole Cameras, but it was difficult to accurately guess if the photographic paper had been exposed for too long or too little until going into the darkroom and developing the photo. I found it abit frustrating when each of my pictures turned out black or white as I followed the time frame I was supposed to leave it inside or outside for.
Out of the photos I developed only one turned out well, although part of the image was black while the other was very white, suggesting an imbalance of light. I took this image outside when the sun was extremely bright, so I had to shorten the time frame of leaving my photo exposed from 30 seconds to 15 seconds.
I mistakenly filmed two photos in the hall where I was later told the light wouldn’t reflect onto the paper because it wasn’t bright enough. These photos’s turned out white, so I filmed in the atrium where there was some natural light. I left the next two photos exposed for 10 minutes but the photo’s came out too dark.
If I was to develop my photo outside again, then I think I would have to do it when the weather was neutral so I could gain accurate results. I also learnt to reduce the time frame if the photograph turns out white and increase it if the photograph turns out black until the photograph turns out well.
Analysis of Other People's Pinhole Photography
I looked up various websites of other people’s work on Pinhole Photography and came across very professional black and white images. Although my one good image turned out well for me because I could see my image, I feel it still had been exposed for too long which is why a lot of my image is black. I think my photo would have turned out better if it wasn’t such a sunny day as the light exposed my photographic paper quickly. The images I found looked as if they had been taken on a normal camera and were changed to black and white. I suspect this is because the person who took these pictures using a Pinhole Camera have been doing so for a long time, where as this was my first time in trying Pinhole Photography. In some of the other photos, the outline of the Pinhole can be seen although the actual photo still looks very clean and professionally done.
Research and Development
Pinhole Camera has developed over the years to showreel films, digital cameras, video games and so on. The earliest type of film produced a film recording moving images, progressing from Pinhole Cameras where the photos recorded are still. Now that we have digital cameras, we can upload photos straight away to the computer, rather then developing photos in the dark room, using the developer, mixer and waiting a long time to get the finished image. Photo’s can also come in colour and be taken one after the other.
Scanning and Using Photoshop
I scanned my image using the photocopier. I swiped my card to log in. Next, I clicked on the option to send to myself, then selected on the JPEG format. The last thing I did was click on the green button to send my images.
I checked my email to see if my image had sent which it did. I saved my JPEG image to my Usb Drive and then opened my file on Photoshop and cropped the image. I saved my image as 'Negative' and changed the format to JPEG. Next I inverted the image and saved that as 'Positive', once again saving the image in a JPEG format.
Blogging
Before I could log into the bloggers site I got my own Gmail account. I logged into the bloggers site and created a new blog which I titled ‘Pinhole Camera’. I then created a new post and wrote about the process of making and using a Pinhole Camera, a small section on Blogging, Researching and Developing, Scanning and Using Photoshop, Analysis of other people's Pinhole Photography and an Evaluation.
Making and Using My Self-Made Pinhole Camera
I brought in a tube to make my self made pin hole camera with. First, I drew a small square in the middle of my tube using a pencil, then using a knife I cut the square out. Next, I painted the inside of my tube black so light wouldn’t reflect inside. I stuck foil over my cut out square and taped it down with duct tape to make the lens of my camera. I used a pin to pierce a hole into the foil. I then stuck duct tape over my pot lid so I could cover the inside of the tube, preventing light from getting through. I created a flap over my foil next so I could easily open and close the lid by taping a rectangular black card next to my foil, then taping duct tape to each side of it.
I measured the width at the top of my pot which turned out to be 72mm and divided it by 0.8 to get 90mm. That meant it would take me 30 seconds to develop a photo outside as the light is bright outside and 4 minutes inside. I learnt the process of developing a photo inside the darkroom before cutting out photographic paper and sliding it into the tube. I closed the lid shut inside the darkroom so the photographic paper wouldn’t become prematurely overexposed. It was then finally time for me to go outside and develop my photo!
I left the first photograph exposed for 30 seconds and returned to the darkroom to develop the photo. I left my photographic paper in the developer for 30 seconds, and then moved it to the next tray of water for 10 seconds. Finally I left it in the fixer for 5 minutes. I then moved it to the last tray of water to clean it off. However it turned out pitch black, meaning I had left it developed for too long. I shortened my next time frame outside to 15 seconds because the sun was very bright that day, exposing my photo to light quickly. When I developed that photo it turned out well, so I decided to try developing my photos inside. I left the lid open for 2 and a half minutes, but when I developed that photo in the darkroom, the photo came out white. I left the second photo for 4 minutes with the same effect. The last two photos took me 10 minutes, but the first photo turned out black on one side, while the other side was fine because the light was shining brightly on one side of the photo, while the other photo turned out black once again.
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